Balancing Beer at Brewer's Fork in Charlestown – Eater Boston

Brewer’s Fork in Charlestown is a lot of things: a wood-fired pizzeria, a fresh seafood spot, and an essential lunch pillar. It also happens to be one of the best beer bars in the Boston area.

That’s because the space, situated in Hayes Square, remains focused on balance. Balance between drinks, balance between midday salami pies, and balance between people. No aspect of the space intrudes on another: Minimalist lamps dangle above each table, while the day’s specials are displayed modestly on blackboards. The dining area is airy and open, with a sleek bar close by for the particularly parched.

The beer list takes a similar approach. Although paper menus are available, consider gazing at the black panels situated neatly behind the bar. 30 drafts, spanning sours to stouts, gaze back: Firestone Walker’s Helldorado, a barrel-aged golden barleywine; Teenage Riot, a single-hop pale ale from Notch in Salem; a slightly hoppy amber ale from SingleCut in New York; a spiced belgian dark ale from the Lost Abbey.

A little intimidating? Sure, the selection calls for some careful decision-making. But despite its density, the draft list is oddly approachable. That’s because bar manager and beer buyer Josh Witkowski, along with Brewer’s Fork owner Michael Cooney, make sure all styles and palates are accounted for, including those of non-beer drinkers who just want to taste something new.

“Our mission in the beginning was to have an idea of what style should be on each line, including ciders,” Cooney says. “It’d be easy to grab 15 IPAs and just run with that, since that’s the popular style at the moment, but we felt it was important to get some lagers, local beer, and some European beer.”

Cooney’s tenure at The Publick House, a well-known beer bar in

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